
Also available in a pack
Lead Screw Lubricant — Pack of 3
₹1,349
₹2,999.00
10% off · Prepaid₹1,499.00 on Amazon
Precision PTFE grease for trapezoidal Z-axis lead screws — not for linear rods. Syringe applicator for clean, controlled maintenance on FDM 3D printers.






₹500
₹2,999.00
10% off · Prepaid
Direct prepaid price — 10% off marketplace, pay on Razorpay.
Buy now
Loading payment…
Pay securely with Razorpay. Shipping details are collected on the payment form.
Add multiple items, then checkout to copy the order block and pay on Razorpay.
Need help choosing? WhatsApp us, call +91 9408584181, or email [email protected].

Also available in a pack
₹1,349
₹2,999.00
10% off · Prepaid₹1,499.00 on Amazon
PTFE-based lead screw grease in a 10ml syringe for 3D printer Z-axis maintenance. Reduces Z-banding, smooths screw movement, and is made in India by Proevove.
Precision PTFE grease for trapezoidal Z-axis lead screws — not for linear rods. Syringe applicator for clean, controlled maintenance on FDM 3D printers.
Lead Screw Lubricant 10ml is a PTFE film for moving axes, not a general-purpose workshop grease. Use the gold lead-screw grease only on trapezoidal Z screws. Use the linear-rod lubricant only on smooth steel rods.
Wipe old paste off first. A rice-grain amount in the thread valleys or along the rod is enough. Jog the axis so the nut or bearing spreads it, then wipe anything that would sling toward the bed.
Relubricate when the axis squeaks, ticks on Z hops, or feels grabby — often every one to three months for hobby use. Stacking fresh grease on blackened paste makes it gritty.
How to use Lead Screw Lubricant 10ml: clean old paste with IPA, apply a rice-grain amount, jog the axis ten to fifteen times, and wipe excess. Do not put lead-screw grease on smooth rods, and do not put rod lubricant on a trapezoidal Z screw.
What Lead Screw Lubricant 10ml is for: PTFE-based lead screw grease — formulated for low-friction, high-load trapezoidal Z-axis screws. Prevents Z-banding with smooth, consistent screw movement for better print quality layer by layer. 10ml syringe applicator for clean, controlled application without waste. Not for linear rods — optimized exclusively for lead screws; do not use on smooth rods or linear rails. Reduces wear on screw threads and brass or POM nuts during regular printer maintenance. Compatible with Bambu Lab, Creality, Elegoo, Anycubic, Prusa, Voron, and most FDM printers with lead screw Z-axis. Made in India by Proevove — trusted by FDM 3D printer users across India.
Listed specifications — Brand: Proevove; Material: Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE); Item Form: Syringe; Net Quantity: 10 ml; Use: 3D Printer Z-Axis Lead Screws; Country of Origin: India; Special Features: Heat resistant, non-toxic, precision applicator.
Lead Screw Lubricant 10ml is listed as compatible with Bambu Lab A1, Bambu Lab A1 Mini, Bambu Lab P1S, Bambu Lab P2S, Bambu Lab P1P, Bambu Lab H2S, Bambu Lab H2D, Bambu Lab X1C, Other FDM printers, Resin 3D printers.
To buy Lead Screw Lubricant 10ml from this website, add it to the cart and pay on Razorpay, or use Buy now where a payment button is shown. Amazon and Flipkart remain available when those links are listed. Prepaid shop orders need a shipping address on Razorpay.
Proevove is based in Bhavnagar, Gujarat. This lubricant product is sold prepaid on this shop and on Amazon India, with Flipkart on selected listings.
Made in India
Designed and packed in Bhavnagar, Gujarat for Indian FDM and resin printers.
Amazon Fulfilled
Marketplace orders ship tracked across India through Amazon.
COD on Amazon
Cash on delivery is available on Amazon listings, not on prepaid Razorpay orders.
Easy Returns
Amazon and Flipkart orders follow that marketplace’s return window.
Answers to common questions before you order.
No. This gold PTFE grease is only for trapezoidal Z lead screws (the threaded rod the brass or POM nut rides on). Using it on smooth rods or rails makes a sticky mess. For rods, use Proevove Linear Rod Lubricant instead. The label says “do not use for linear rods” — that warning is real.
Wipe old dry grease off the screw with IPA and a cloth until the threads look like bare metal. Lay a thin gold line in the thread valleys from the syringe, then jog Z up and down about ten to fifteen times so the nut spreads it. Wipe anything that would sling toward the bed. Recap the syringe.
For hobby use, every one to three months, or when the axis starts to squeak, tick on Z hops, or feel grabby. Clean the old film off before adding more — stacking fresh grease on blackened paste makes it gritty.
Any FDM (or resin) machine with a trapezoidal Z lead screw: Bambu Lab A1, A1 Mini, P1, X1, H2, Creality Ender/K1, Elegoo, Anycubic, Prusa, Voron, and similar. If your Z axis is a smooth rod or a linear rail, this is the wrong bottle.
Yes when the room is AC-cold. The grease is thick on purpose so it stays in vertical threads instead of dripping. Warm the syringe in a pocket for a few minutes, then dose a rice-grain amount. Do not force a blob out.
Used as a thin film in the thread valleys, it stays put. Cheap tub grease is what slings. Wipe excess after jogging the axis, especially on a tall screw next to the bed.
One 10ml syringe is enough for many clean-and-lube cycles on a single Z screw. You only need a thin line, not a packed thread. Buy the pack of 3 if you maintain several printers or want a spare in the drawer.
Order on Amazon India (COD on many listings) or message us on WhatsApp for the direct prepaid price, which is 10% off the Amazon price. Made in Bhavnagar, Gujarat.
Lead Screw Lubricant 10ml has 88 reviews with an average of 4.6 out of 5.
4.6
Based on 88 reviews
Vikram Agarwal
Positive on noise and feel. Tiny complaint: a speck of grease got on the magnetic bed edge and I had to clean that before the next PLA print. User error, but the syringe can spit if you push fast.
O. Goel
Thick gold grease, stays put.
Abhilash Verma
Nut travel feels even now.
Isha Gaikwad
Tip of the syringe reaches into the thread without taking the lead screw off the printer. That alone is why I stopped buying open tins.
Rahul Menon
Tall Sidewinder column is a pain with a tub because you drip halfway down. The clear syringe let me stand on a stool, put the tip in the thread, and lay a line without taking the lead screw out. After twenty up-down cycles the POM nut stopped that sticky-release click near the top. Gold paste is still sitting in the valleys two days later, not in a ring on the coupler.
Pranav Kothari
Ab noise nahi on slow Z moves. Was a dry scrape before.
Deepak Mishra
Z axis finally quiet.
Sameer Patel
Elegoo Neptune 4 Z screw had that dry brass-on-steel scrape at the bottom of travel where dust collects. I degreased with IPA and an old toothbrush, then ran a thin gold bead from this 10ml syringe and cycled until the nut looked wet all the way around. Scrape is gone, layers on a 180mm vase are less wavy, and nothing slung onto the PEI. Proevove barrel is still more than half full, parked next to the Allen keys so I actually do this again in a few months.
Firoz Panchal
10ml lasted two printers.
Kavya Dhillon
POM nut on my older Creality was starting to chatter halfway up the screw, that sticky-release click you feel in the gantry. Scraped the blackened old film with a cloth and a bit of IPA, then laid a thin gold line from the syringe and jogged Z until the nut looked evenly wet. It glides now without grabbing. 10ml is the right size for one tall screw and I did not need to pull the lead screw out of the frame. Anti-wear film is still sitting in the threads after a week of prints.
Ritika Patel
Proevove printed Made in India on the label, packing was a simple poly bag around the syringe. No leakage from the black cap.
Hemant S.
Wrapped the nut in kitchen paper while feeding grease so the extra never reached the frame. Homing on the Anycubic Vyper no longer sounds like dry brass.
Swati
Old grease was the real problem
If you skip cleaning, this will just sit on top of the brown crust and you will think the lube failed. I spent more time with IPA and a toothbrush than applying the new PTFE, picking dried flakes out of the brass nut until the threads looked clean. After that the screw sounded healthy again and the Z motor stopped that strained note on homing. Thick gold grease then has something to cling to. Five minutes of dirty work, one minute of syringe work.
Mihir Reddy
Performance on the lead screw is clearly better than generic yellow grease from a hardware shop. It stays in the trapezoidal valleys, quiets the brass nut, and does not fling onto the bed the way thin oil did. I still wince a bit at paying around 555 when a big tub costs less, even if most of that tub is the wrong type and would slide off a vertical screw in a week. Worth it if you actually have a lead screw, not if you wanted a giant tub of random grease.
Ravi Kulkarni
Red line on the label says do not use for linear rods, so I left the smooth rods alone and only dressed the trapezoidal Z screw. Binding on the brass nut dropped after one full travel up and down.
Hema Kaul
People mix this with linear-rod oil. I used it only on the lead screw, left the rods for the other bottle. Proevove kept the warning on the wrap, which saved me from a messy mistake.
Kirti Sen
Ender 3 squeak finally stopped
Cleaned the old dry white grease off the Z lead screw with IPA and an old toothbrush until the threads looked bare metal again. Then I ran a thin bead of this yellowish-gold Proevove grease down the valleys and jogged the axis about fifteen times so the brass nut could spread it. Next homing cycle the Ender 3 stopped that metal-on-brass squeak I had been ignoring for months. The syringe stayed clean, the black cap went back on, and I still have most of the 10ml left.
Harish Ku.
After wiping the factory coating, this gold paste made the Voron Z motors sound less strained during homing. Anti-wear claim seems fair; the brass looks wet instead of shiny-dry.
Yash Solanki
Plunger is a workout when cold
Kaam toh karta hai on the lead screw, but pushing the grey plunger is a workout when the grease is cold. I almost thought the syringe was blocked. Warm water on the outside for a minute fixed it, still annoying for a 10ml pack. Once it flows, the gold paste stays on the vertical screw and the brass nut is quieter. Just do not try to force it straight from a cold drawer before the PTFE has loosened.
Sana Mohanty
Holds on the screw and reduced binding, which I wanted. If you squeeze too much it strings onto the nearby frame and collects dust. A tissue wrap around the nut while you jog Z helps.
Anil Pattnaik
Label says For Z Axis Lead Screw and they mean it. I ignored YouTube comments telling people to smear this on rods.
Gauri D'Souza
WhatsApped to confirm this Proevove tube is Z-screw only, not the pink rod oil. Used it on the CR-6 SE after a wipe and the brass nut is quieter on homing, paste still sitting above the motor.
Arnav Mahapatra
On slow layer changes the P1S Z used to whine after a few months of dust sitting in the threads. I cleaned the screw with a dry cloth, picked the crust out of the brass nut, then put a tiny amount of this Proevove grease in a line and jogged it twenty times. Overnight PETG print was noticeably less metallic. High-adhesion paste is still on the vertical screw the next morning, not in a puddle on the coupler. 10ml syringe is easy to park in the tool drawer.
Alok Tiwari
Paste is so thick I thought the barrel was empty until I pushed hard. Fine for a lead screw once it moves, but a 10ml tube feels stingy if you have dual Z and you clean the old grease first.
Sahil Gill
Finished one dual-Z Creality and the barrel already looks half empty because I also cleaned the old grease and reapplied. Ten millilitres is a sample more than a shop stock, the paste is thick enough that you waste extra getting it moving, and I just expected more volume at this size on paper.
Sanjay Rao
Used to dab lithium grease with a cotton bud and get it everywhere, including the bed clips. The clear 10ml Proevove syringe lets you lay a line in the thread, wipe the excess, and put the black cap back without a filthy tin on the bench. Noise on the Anycubic Z column dropped the same evening after I cleaned the dry film first. Brass nut no longer chatters at the top of travel. This is the format I will repurchase next time.
Anuj Subramanian
Summer in Ahmedabad dried the old white grease into flakes that packed the brass nut on my CR-10. Tall prints started showing a slight wobble every few millimetres, which I blamed on the coupler until I actually looked at the screw. Degreased with IPA until the trapezoid looked bare, then used this 10ml gold PTFE from the clear syringe, a thin bead, cycling the gantry twenty times with a tissue wrapped under the nut so nothing flung onto the bed. Wobble dropped on the next 0.2mm calibration tower and the motor no longer growls at the top of a 300mm vase. I still have most of the barrel. Proevove kept the not-for-rods line on the wrap, which I actually read this time after mixing products last year.
Sanjana Sh.
Compared to the cheap tub grease I used earlier, this stays in the thread valleys instead of slinging onto the bed. Print layers on a 20cm vase came out more even after the Z clean-up.
Bhavesh Murthy
Does the job on a trapezoidal screw and Amazon packing was a thin pouch with the syringe intact. Red Do-not-use-on-rods line is tiny if you are skimming at 1am.
Preeti Sh.
Ender 3 squeak gone.
Parth Mohanty
Pehle IPA se saaf kiya, phir a thin bead along the trapezoid. Ender Z scrape disappeared after a dozen jogs and the black cap went back on without leaking.
Sahil
Every thin oil I tried ran down to the coupler in a week. This high-adhesion grease is still sitting in the threads after several tall prints. That is the whole point of a lead-screw formula.
Nandini Verma
I store tools in an AC-cold steel cabinet, and the first evening the grey plunger barely moved. Two minutes in a warm pocket and the gold PTFE flowed, after which the P1S Z growl on slow layer changes softened. Deducting a star because a 10ml pack should not feel like a gym set when the room is 22C. A scrap of cloth in the bag would have saved me a trip to the kitchen.
Mihir Ghosh
Factory film on the P2S screw had gone dusty and pale. After an IPA wipe this yellowish paste packed into the thread and the slow Z lifts lost that sandy growl.
Hitesh Gaikwad
Heat from the chamber did not thin it into soup. Still clinging to the screw after a long ABS job.
Rudra Kaul
Noise dropped and the screw looks properly wet in the valleys. Small minus: the black cap is a screw type, easy to cross-thread if you rush with greasy fingers.
Quincy Pawar
Threads still look wet today.
Ruchi Patil
Quieted the brass nut on a week-old Ender 3 V3 after I cleaned it. Minus points because the first plunger push spat a string onto the gantry and I had no wipe cloth in the bag.
Darshan Das
Old dry film was flaking like grey dust. After a proper clean this yellowish-green grease packed into the threads and the Z motor current in the slicer did not need that extra bump I had added.
Chirag Sharma
Bought this after my A1 started making a dry ticking on Z hops. One pass with the syringe tip in the threads and the hop sound is almost gone.
Siddhi Chavan
Paper towel goes under the nut while I jog the axis and feed grease from the syringe. Cleaner than a brush. Ender 3 V2 is silent on Z now except fan noise.
Sanjana Rodrigues
No cloth in the pouch.
Rakesh Das
Plunger thoda tight when the AC is blasting, so I rolled the barrel between my palms first. Once it moved, the gold PTFE stayed on the vertical screw instead of dripping, though I still wish they packed a scrap of cloth.
Megha Gaikwad
High-adhesion formula, not watery oil. You can turn the printer on its side and the grease does not run down the lead screw.
Bharat Joshi
Ran the Z axis twenty times after application so the brass nut could spread it. Layer lines on a calibration cube look less wavy than last month. A little extra paste still found the frame, so go slower on the plunger.
Nidhi Mehta
Did not want to tear down the X1C just to oil a lead screw. The syringe tip reaches the thread from the side if you move the bed down and work in sections. I cleaned a thumb-width at a time with IPA, laid the yellowish paste, cycled, wiped the nut face, then moved to the next section. Whole job took fifteen minutes and the slow Z hops lost that dry tick. Chamber heat the next day did not thin the film or throw droplets on the plate. Grey plunger is stiff at the start of a stroke, then predictable, and the black cap went back on so the barrel can sit in the AMS cabinet.
Suman Verma
Anti-wear is the bit I care about. The POM nut on my older machine was starting to show shiny spots. This Proevove PTFE mix leaves a film instead of a wet mess.
Jaspreet Dubey
Does not smell harsh. Colour is that green-gold you see in the photos, not white lithium.
Ayush Bose
Watching the Z motor on my Ender 3 Max struggle at the top of a 300mm print is what pushed me to clean the screw. Packed the gold PTFE into the thread with the syringe tip, and the current bump I had added in the firmware is no longer needed. 10ml is small in the hand and that is fine because I would rather dose than dump. Black screw cap sealed after, no leak in the tool drawer.
Sanjay Kaul
Formula did quiet the dry brass on my older Creality after a proper wipe. What cost a star is the wrap: Do not use for linear Rods is a thin red sentence you can skip if you are rushing, and I stopped with the tip almost on an X rod. Also no wipe cloth, so keep kitchen paper nearby before you press the grey plunger. Once you use it in the right place it stays put and does not sling onto the bed.
Ravi Go.
Cap missing, barrel cracked
Box looked sat on when it arrived. The clear barrel had a crack near the tip, the black cap was missing, and gold PTFE had smeared inside the poly bag onto the packing slip. I could salvage maybe a couple of millilitres with a tissue, not enough for a tall dual-Z, and WhatsApped a photo while I wait. Not judging the grease formula because I never got a usable sealed syringe, just a floppy pouch in a shared carton.
Tarun Patel
The PTFE grease is properly thick, which is why it stays on a vertical screw instead of dripping. Only complaint is the grey plunger is stiff when the room is AC-cold, so I keep the syringe in a pocket for five minutes before use.
Vaibhav Nair
Coupler stayed clean this time.
Gauri Mohanty
Not for rods, noted.
Daniel
Elegoo Z banding is milder now, which is why I am keeping it. Took two cleaning rounds because leftover dry grease in the nut mixed with the new gold paste and felt gritty until I flushed it again, then it settled.
Mohit Mehta
Two lead screws, one 10ml syringe, plenty left. Grease is gold and thick like honey that forgot how to pour, so it stays in the trapezoidal valleys while I jog each tower. After twenty up-down cycles the gantry racking on the right side eased because that nut had been dry and grabbing. I wiped a little excess off the lower coupler so it would not fling. This is exactly the job a lead-screw PTFE is for, not a job for rod oil.
Imran Roy
Anycubic Kobra Z column was dry and dusty. One 10ml syringe and a rag, printer feels less like it is fighting the nut.
Akshay Ku.
H2D chamber runs warm and I was worried a hobby grease would thin and fling. After wiping the factory coat I put a conservative amount in the trapezoidal valleys and ran Z. Next morning the film was still there, the bed was clean, and the slow homing growl had dropped. Grey plunger is firm but controllable if you do not jab it.
Monica B.
Vertical screw hold is good.
B. Trivedi
SV06 Z had a dry zip on the last 40mm of travel. Scraped the old brown film, laid a thin gold line from the syringe, cycled the axis until the POM nut looked evenly wet, and did not have to pull the screw.
C. Brar
Workshop was dim and I reached for the nearest 10ml syringe to wet the X rails before a long PETG job. Gold paste, not the pink rod oil, and I only noticed when the film looked too sticky on the smooth rod. Wiped the rails with IPA immediately, then used what was left on the actual trapezoidal Z screw where it belongs. Too thick for rods, a bit too thick even for my taste on Z, and 10ml shrinks fast when you waste the first centimetre on the wrong axis. Brass nut is quieter now, which saves this from a lower score. Print the rod warning on the plunger, not only the wrap.
Jayesh Mu.
H2S lead screw maintenance is awkward in the frame. The Proevove syringe let me reach without removing covers. Thick grease did not drip on the bed.
Anita Shinde
Made in India PTFE grease and it does not smell like solvent. Applied a rice-grain amount every 3cm, then ran the axis ten times. Small minus: no wipe cloth in the bag, so keep a rag ready.
Pranav Kamath
Applied it only on the trapezoidal screw as written. Linear rails I left with their own oil. Z travel is smoother and the faint ringing on tall walls reduced a little.
Ishaan Trivedi
Precision application is real — you can dose a rice grain, not a blob. 10ml will last a year of hobby use on one machine.
Sandeep Shah
Grey plunger needs a firm push.
Tejas Verma
Paisa vasool PTFE grease.
Vidya Kamat
Cotton bud was only for spreading after the syringe laid the line, not for scooping from a tin. Difference on the Kingroon KP3S Z column is that the motor no longer sounds like it is dragging a dry nut on the first homing of the day. I left the linear rails alone. Proevove label meant what it said.
Zain Jindal
Syringe application is neat.
Thomas Parekh
Flipkart listing showed up next to the pink rod syringe and I almost picked the wrong one. Grease itself holds on the Z screw and the P1S growl on slow lifts is duller, but make the rod warning larger on the card.
Jhanvi Goel
First use was messy because I treated it like thin oil and over-squeezed. After wiping the extra off the coupler, the remaining film stays in the valleys, so the lesson was on me.
Lakshmi Iyer
Works on the lead screw, messy on first contact. I did not warm the syringe, pushed, and got a blob on the lower thread that I then had to chase with IPA so it would not fling. Remaining film clings in the valleys and the hop on my A1 is less of a dry tick. Small tube, no accessories, warning text could be bolder.
Kabir Jindal
Ten millilitres disappears on dual Z.
Sourav Kaul
Clear syringe, black cap, you can see exactly how much gold grease is left. Used it on the P1S Z screw after wiping the factory film and the motor no longer growls on slow lifts.
Anjali Unni
Bambu P1P Z was getting that sandy feel. After a clean and this grease the first-layer Z offset I had been chasing settled down.
Nirav Balakrishnan
Lead screw pe hi lagaana, rods mat chhedna. Followed the wrap, dressed only the trapezoidal column on my Ender 5, and the faint chatter at mid-travel is gone.
U. Chatterjee
Recieved the syringe with the black screw cap still sealed. First use on a Prusa-style Z pair — both screws, one syringe, still half left. Proevove packing was simple and that was enough.
Tejas Deshmukh
Definately better than cooking-oil-and-hope maintenance. Screw looks wet, nut is quiet, I am keeping a spare.
Hetal Vyas
Brass nut sliding better.
Anjali Warrier
Stiff syringe out of a cold drawer was my only real gripe until I warmed it against the PSU for a minute. Binding eased after a small bead every few centimetres, and I still had to fetch my own rag.
Varun Pe.
Cap fits tight enough.
Saurabh Kamat
Jogged Z, metallic scrape gone.
Sneha Panchal
Wish the rod warning was bigger
Sticky enough for a lead screw, which is why I am not dumping the tube. Problem is I nearly put it on the X rods because the listing photos look like generic lube and the red Do not use for linear Rods text on the wrap is small. Caught it after one wipe, cleaned the rod with IPA, and ordered the pink linear-rod syringe instead. A bigger warning on the card would have saved that extra step. Thick gold paste and grey plunger work on the Z screw once you use it in the right place.
Gopal Hegde
Missing a cheap application card
Grease quality is good and the Z binding on my Elegoo is better. A tiny brush or a how-much-to-use note would help first-timers, but the syringe already controls the dose if you go slow.
Vinay
Amazon had it in a plain pouch, arrived uncrushed, black cap still tight. Applied too fast the first time and a string of gold landed on the bed clip, which is on me, but the plunger is snappy once it breaks static friction. After a slower second pass on the trapezoidal screw the brass nut is quieter. Budget a rag and do not treat the first push like dish soap.
Salman Malhotra
IPA first, then a bead.
Kabir Gu.
First squeeze went everywhere
Formula is right for a trapezoidal Z screw, thick, gold, stays in the valleys, and it quiets a POM nut. My first squeeze was not. Cold garage, stiff plunger, I leaned on it and a ribbon of grease jumped onto the frame, the bed clip, and my palm. No wipe cloth in the pack, so I walked to the kitchen with a greasy hand. After that fiasco I warmed the barrel, dosed tiny beads, and the Ender 3 squeak I came for actually stopped. Deducting a star for the kit, not the PTFE, and I am still keeping it off the linear rods.
Irfan
A1 Mini Z screw was dry at the top where the nut never sits. A thin coat and the little zip sound during unload disappeared.